Information Center

Tennis Information Center

Whether you are a beginner looking to learn more about general product information or an advanced player looking to refine their equipment, Midwest Sports Information Center can help. We have over 25 years of tennis experience. Our staff includes former tour players and recreational players. We have designed this center to be a quick find for the tennis information you need to improve your game. Let us help you reach your tennis goals. If you need information that you can not find in our Information Center, please call us at 800.334.4580 and we will be happy to answer your tennis questions.

How do I select the best racquet for me?	How do I select string?
How do I select the right tension range?	How do I select the right grip size?
How do you replace a grip?	How do you increase grip size?
How do you replace bumper guard and grommet set?	How to select a shoe?
Apparel Size Guide	What are the rules of tennis?

How do I select the best racquet for me?

With so many tennis racquets on the market, choosing one can be as intimidating as returning Andy Roddick's serve. Should you purchase an ultra-light racquet? Or is your game better suited to a heavier model? And what about all those high-tech features manufacturers love to talk about? It sounds simple: You want to arm yourself with a brand-new racquet that will improve your winning percentage. But sometimes it's hard knowing just where to start. That's where this guide can help you.

POWER OR CONTROL?

When buying a racquet, the first thing you must decide is whether you want one that will provide you with power, control, or a blend of the two. If you're a beginner, you should play with a racquet that's light enough so it's easy to swing and powerful enough so it adds giddyup to your game. Our advice:

Go with a racquet that weighs between 9 and 10 ounces, has an oversize head measuring at least 100 square inches (which will give you more power and improve your chances of making good contact with the ball), and has a beam width (the thickness of the frame) that's at least 25 millimeters thick. A "wide" beam makes the frame stiff and therefore more powerful. If you're an advanced player and can generate your own juice on the court, it's a different story. You're looking for more control, and you can get it with a racquet that's heavier (over 10.5 ounces) and has a smaller head and thinner beam. If you're an intermediate, try a racquet that offers a blend of power and control, falling between the heavy, thin-beamed control racquets and the lighter and bigger power sticks. "For most levels of play, you need a racquet that isn't too powerful and yet isn't all about control," says Bruce Levine, TENNIS Magazine's racquet advisor, "because power won't mean a thing if you can't keep the ball in the court, and all the control in the world does you no good if you can't get enough gas on your shots."

PRE-STRUNG OR PREMIUM?

When shopping for a racquet, you also have to decide whether you want a pre-strung model or a premium, or "performance," frame. Pre-strung racquets cost from $25 to around $100. Most premium frames are priced between $100 and $250 and feature the latest technology. With premium racquets, you usually need to buy string separately and have it installed in the frame. And if you're buying for a child who's just getting into the game, check out junior racquets, which are pre-strung and sold in graduated lengths (21, 23, 25, and 26 inches). Most junior racquets cost under $50.

TRADITIONAL LENGTH OR EXTRA LONG?

It wasn't too many years ago that every racquet was 27 inches long. Now, adult racquets come in lengths up to 28 inches (extra long). Everything else being equal, extra-long frames are more powerful than 27-inch models because the contact point is farther away from your body, resulting in greater momentum on your swing and more pop on your shots. The downside is that an extra-long racquet may not be as maneuverable as a 27-inch frame.

HEAD HEAVY OR HEAD LIGHT?

A racquet's balance is either head heavy, head light, or even. To check a frame's balance, measure it lengthwise and balance it at its exact center. If the head dips down, the racquet is head heavy. If the handle dips down, it's head light. Head-heavy racquets give you more power on ground strokes but are less maneuverable, which can be a problem when you're at the net. Players who like to rally from the baseline tend to prefer head-heavy frames. Head-light racquets are easier to maneuver at net, but they won't deliver the power of head-heavy frames when you hit from the baseline. Serve-and-volleyers, all-court players, and advanced players who take full swings generally like head-light racquets. Evenly balanced frames offer a blend of power from the baseline and maneuverability at the net. They usually appeal to all-court players.

OPEN OR DENSE STRING PATTERN?

Another area to consider is the pattern of the strings. An open string pattern has bigger spaces between the strings and will help when you want to add spin because the strings will "bite" into the ball more deeply. For example, the more topspin you add to your shots, the harder you can hit the ball and still keep it in the court. An open pattern, for instance, could have 16 main and 20 cross strings. A dense string pattern-for example, 18 mains and 20 crosses-will give you added control in directing your shots. To generate more topspin, though, you'll need to brush up on the ball more severely.

Step 1: Select Player Level

BEGINNER (NTRP 1.5 - 2.5): Beginners typically have a slower swing speed and need additional forgiveness, so a frame with additional power is an ideal choice.

INTERMEDIATE (NTRP 3.0 - 4.5): Intermediate players will have some power and consistency, and should look for some additional power from the frame without sacrificing control.

ADVANCED (NTRP 4.5 - 7.0): Advanced players have more developed all around skills match experience. A frame that emphasizes control and touch is most appropriate.

Step 2: Select Racquet Type

POWER: Power racquets offer a larger sweetspot, easy maneuverability, and some added reach. Power racquets are typically lighter and have wider, stiffer beams as well.

COMFORT: Comfort oriented racquets will have a more forgiving sweetspot and may feature some technology specific to vibration dampening.

CONTROL: Advanced players have more developed all around skills match experience. A frame that emphasizes control and touch is most appropriate.

NOTE:
HEAVIER FRAME: Provides more power, less vibration, and a larger sweetspot.
STIFFER FRAME: Provides more power, more arm vibration, more consistent feel across stringbed, and a larger sweetspot.
LARGER FRAME: Provides more power, more stability with less twist and torque, easier spin, and a larger sweetspot.

Step 3: Select Price Range

Step 4: Select Racquet Brand

How do I select string?

With literally hundreds of different strings on the market, it can be overwhelming trying to find the one that best complements your game. But if you take the time to understand the main categories of string and what your priorities are, you'll have an easier time narrowing down the possibilities. There are five categories of string:

NYLON SOLID CORE: This is the most basic (and least expensive) type of string, with a solid core and one or two outer wraps. These strings are fairly durable and hold tension well, but they aren't the most comfortable because they're relatively stiff and don't cushion much of the ball's impact. Companies typically call their nylon solid core strings "synthetic gut." Some of the best choices in this category include Wilson Extreme Synthetic Gut, Gamma Synthetic Gut, and Prince Synthetic Gut Original.

NYLON/POLYURETHANE MULTIFILAMENTS: These are the top shelf of synthetic strings. Multifilaments are composed of hundreds, often thousands, of individual fibers that are woven together to create a uniform piece of string. With multifilaments, you'll get excellent feel, and, because they do a good job of absorbing shock, a comfortable sensation. Multifilaments usually run from $15 to $30; when you factor in the labor, it's a pricey but worthwhile proposition, especially for better players who like to feel the ball. Our favorites are Wilson NXT Tour, Technifibre NRG2, and Gamma Live Wire Professional.

NATURAL GUT: Still the gold standard, natural gut-which is made of cow intestine-pockets the ball more deeply across a smaller area, for control, but also allows more of the ball's energy to be returned to the ball, for pop. And you won't find a more comfortable string, so if you have arm problems, natural gut is, well, the natural choice. Gut is the most expensive, it isn't durable (players who hit a heavy ball have been known to break a string in a couple hours), and though companies now use protective coatings, the string is still the most susceptible to losing tension when it's exposed to moisture. Babolat, which produces 90 percent of the natural gut on the market, has many types of gut; we like the Babolat VS Touch.

POLYESTER: These strings are popular among advanced players who find that poly takes a little power off their shots, enabling them to swing harder and still keep the ball in play. Polyester is also ideal for those who tend to break strings but who don't want to use a stiff, uncomfortable Kevlar hybrid. Polyester's biggest weakness is that it loses tension quickly, though the latest generation, of which the Babolat Hurricane, Head Ultra Tour, and Wilson Enduro are among the best, does a better job of maintaining its tension thanks to recent advances in the manufacturing process.

HYBRIDS: The combination of one type of string for the mains and another for the crosses is called a hybrid. This is done for durability. Frequent string-breakers should go with a stiff aramid fiber like Kevlar for the mains (the strings that usually break first) and a softer synthetic for the crosses. Hybrids last long but can produce a boardy feel. Two of the most popular prepackaged aramid hybrid sets are Gamma Infinity and Prince ProBlend. Some newer hybrids offer a polyester/synthetic gut (or natural gut) combination for a more forgiving feel than Kevlar-based hybrids. Wilson Ultimate Duo, Wilson Champions Choice, and Pacific PolyGut ATP Blend are 3 great options.

How do I select the right tension range?

We have provided the Manufacturer's recommended tension range, measured in pounds; 55 to 65 pounds is a common range. The higher end will provide more control. The lower end will provide more power. Remember, increasing power reduces control and increasing control reduces power. We suggest to find your ideal tension, string your racquet in the middle of your frame's suggested range. After you play a few times, you'll be faced with one of three scenarios:

You have the ideal amount of control and power. If this is the case, you've found the right tension..
You didn't get enough control. Increase your racquet's string tension by 2 pounds. You'll lose some depth on your shots, but you'll gain control.
You didn't get enough power. String your racquet at a slightly lower tension. Remember, though, that if you lower the tension too much, the strings will become trampoline-like and you'll have significantly less control.

How do I select the right grip size?

The popular method for finding your tennis racquet grip size is to follow these simple instruction. On your playing hand, your palm has three main creases. Hold your hand flat, with the fingers alongside one another. Measure from the middle crease of your palm, up the line between your middle and ring fingers, to a point equal to the height of the tip of your ring finger. Typically women will measure between 4 1/8" and 4 3/8", men between 4 1/2" and 4 3/4". Juniors will usually measure less than 4". Most Junior frames are only offered in this size. If you are between sizes, go with the smaller grip. A slightly small grip can be built up easily with an overwrap. Too large a grip can not be properly adjusted without altering the frames properties. Overgrips can't build a grip effectively more than 1/8" though, because each layer of overwrap adds to the rounding off of the bevel edges on your handle.

How do you replace a grip?

Replacing your tennis grip is very important for a few reasons. It helps with the absorption of moisture. A grip can reach a point where it does stops absorbing the sweat and just pushes it back to your hand causing the racquet to torque and turn in your hand. Basically this is going to take away from the racquet sweet spot. Another reason is padding in the grip. Once the padding of the grip wears down it becomes very hard and tough feeling this is not good for the arm or wrist. Maintaining your grip is a great way to cut down on vibration in racquets which cuts down on the arm trouble that could be created by a bad grip.Below you will see the steps along with tools needed that will help you with replacing your next tennis grip

TOOLS NEEDED:

Stringer Awl or small flat head screwdriver
Needle Nose pliers
Scissors

STEPS TO FOLLOW:

Step 1 - Decide what type of new grip material you want to use. If you're happy with the diameter of your current grip, select a new grip material that is similar to what you have now.
Step 2 - Remove the existing grip material, starting at the end nearest the strings. Simply remove the tape holding the grip material in place and unwind.
Step 3 - Remove the tack or staple holding the grip material at the butt of the racket. Save this staple for reuse. There is no need to remove the plastic cap on the butt of the racket.
Step 4 - Most Grips have doublesided tape already applied. Pull off the paper backing to expose the sticky tape
Step 5 - Inspect the new grip material. One end of the material should already be trimmed to a point. Begin wrapping this end at the butt of the racket. Insert staple the staple to hold this end in place.
Step 6 - Pull the material taut as you go. Hold the racket in your left hand and the material in your right. Rotate the racket clockwise.
Step 7 - Overlap the material by about 1/4 inch (6 mm) so that the racket can't be seen through the material.At the end, draw a line even around the top of the grip.
Step 8 - Holding the end of the material in place with your thumb, unwrap grip to show the marked line. Trim along the angled marked linewith a scissors so that it is cut off square.
Step 9 - Secure the top of the material with electrical tape.

NOTE: If you are wrapping a grip for a lefty everything remains, with the exception being the grip will be wrapped counter-clockwise (rather than clockwise for a right-hander.)

How do you increase grip size?

When talking about grip sizes you basically have 5 grip sizes to choose from.

USA = Europe
4-1/8 = 1
4-1/4 = 2
4-3/8 = 3
4-1/2 = 4
4-5/8 = 5

It is very important to purchase the proper grip size however you may need to "customize" or increase the size of your grip. There are multiple ways to achieve a successful customized grip.

When increasing your grip, remember that by increasing the size of your grip, you are changing the weight, balance, and swingweight of the racquet. For example, most people need to increase grip size because of the growth of their hand, if that is the case, the minimum amount of weight added to the racquet is a non-issue. Building the racquet up 1 grip size adds about a 1/2 ounce onto the racquets total weight.

Customize Grip Size

TOOLS NEEDED:

Needle nose pliers to remove butt cap staples
Razor knife to cut off excess heat shrink sleeve
Heat shrink sleeve (can be purchased at Midwest Sports)
Heat gun (can be purchased at Midwest Sports)
Staple gun to put butt cap back on along with starting grip

STEPS TO FOLLOW:

Step 1 - Remove grip. The buttcap also needs to be removed for a customized grip to be completely proper.
Step 2 - Slide the heat shrink sleeve over the grip less handle overlapping the end of the handle 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.
Step 3 - Heat the shrink sleeve until it takes the shape of the handle completely no bubbles can be left in the shrink sleeve. This would cause a very uncomfortable and inaccurate grip.
Step 4 - Trim off the excess heat sleeve at bottom of racquet using the razor knife.
Step 5 - Once the excess is trimmed it is time to attach the butt cap using the staple gun. While you have the staple gun out attach new grip.

How do you replace bumper guard and grommet set?

Replacing your bumper guard grommet set can be pretty simple. First you have to remove the old bumper set. It would be very beneficial to you if you have a stringers awl and a pair of needle nose pliers to help remove the old grommets. You will also need these tools when installing the new bumper guard and grommet set. The awl is very beneficial to get some of the grommets through the holes, especially around the bends in the frame. You may also need a heat gun to heat the bumper guard so you can stretch it a little. This is very common with Babolat and also Dunlop racquets. Following these tips will make your life easier when replacing a grommet. This process depending on racquet brand should only take about 10 minutes. If you have any questions, please call us for us to walk you through the process.

How to select a shoe?

Tennis is all about balance. You have to maintain good balance when you swing. You have to strike a balance between power and control on your shots. Few people, however, think enough about the balance that has to exist between their feet and their shoes.

The truth is, it's critical that your footwear be properly matched to the anatomy of your feet and the surface you play on. Ill-fitting shoes can lead to blisters, ankle and knee pain, and loss of movement on the court. But when your shoes and feet are in sync, you'll feel good and play your best tennis.

What's Your Foot Type?

The first step in finding the right shoe is to figure out what type of foot you have. There are three basic foot types. While only a podiatrist can give you a fully accurate analysis of your foot type, you can evaluate yourself at home too.

The next time you step out of the shower, take a close look at the footprints your wet feet leave on the floor. If you see a crescent-shaped footprint with little or no impression made by your arch, you have a supinated foot. Supinators tend to wear out the outside part of the bottom of their shoes (the lateral side) before the medial (big toe) side. Supinators also tend to have wide feet and need to look for a shoe that provides extra room in the forefoot and toe box. They also need a shoe with extra cushioning to compensate for their high arches.

If your foot leaves a wet mark on the floor that's completely filled in, arch and all, you have a pronated foot. Pronators often have flat feet, and the medial portion of their shoe bottom wears down before the lateral part. People with this foot type often need extra support from their tennis shoes so a mid-cut model or a shoe with extra stability on the medial side is usually a wise choice.

If you're one of the few people who leave a wet footprint with a moderate amount of arch, you have a neutral foot. Consider yourself lucky-this is the most efficient and biomechanically versatile foot type. Players with neutral feet can play tennis in almost any shoe.

Understand the Design

You know your foot type. Next up is understanding the shoe's design so you can pick the one that will perform best for you. There are four parts of a tennis shoe you need to consider:

UPPER: The top portion of the shoe, or the upper, is usually made of leather, synthetic leather, or a combination of materials. If you need extra support, look for lacing systems that thread into reinforcements going down the sides of the shoe; they'll provide added stability.
When you try a shoe on, be sure the upper is comfortable against the top of your foot and is not too tight. If you drag your toe when you serve, look for a durable toecap. And if you hit your forehand from an open stance (that is, with most of the front of your body facing the net), you'll benefit from additional material along the medial portion of the upper since that area often slides along the court and wears down faster as you play.
INSOLE: This is the portion of the shoe that your foot rests on, and it's the least technical part of the operation. If you've had foot problems and wear orthotics, check to see if the insole is removable. In most cases it will be, allowing you to replace a worn-out insole with an over-the-counter one that provides extra cushioning.
MIDSOLE: The midsole is the section that lies between the shoe bottom and the insole. It's generally made from ethyl vinyl acetate (EVA) foam or polyurethane (PU) and in many cases is supplemented by air or gel inserts. The midsole supplies a shoe's cushioning.
It can often be tough to tell when the midsole breaks down and ceases to perform, but as a rule of thumb, a two- or three-day-a-week player will wear out a midsole in five to six months. Frequent players and people who are extremely aggressive on the court will go through midsoles more quickly due to the pounding they give their shoes.
If your shoes don't feel as cushioned as they did when they were new, the midsole may be shot. You should consider buying a new pair.
OUTSOLE: This is where the rubber meets the road. The outsole's design affects the traction you'll get on hard and clay courts.
Herringbone designs that form a tight, wave-like pattern perform best on clay, while outsoles with the most variation in the design (a little herringbone here, a wider groove there) give you the best traction on hard courts.
An outsole should also be durable enough to stand up to your style of game. If you play often or wear out shoes quickly, look for heavy-duty outsoles and try to get a pair with an outsole warranty; if they don't last, you can send them back to the manufacturer to get them replaced.

Heavy or Light?

How heavy should a pair of tennis shoes be? Well, light is nice, but heavy has its advantages, too.

The lighter your shoes, the faster you can zip around the court. So why are tennis shoes almost always heavier than running shoes? The stop-and-start demands of tennis require that shoes have ample cushioning, extra support, and more durable outsoles, all of which add weight.

In an effort to lighten up their shoes, manufacturers often use an hourglass-shaped outsole design for some models. But this may move the shoe's flex point toward the middle of the shoe, near your arch, rather than at the ball of the foot, where your foot naturally bends. (To test a shoe's flex point, hold it firmly around the heel in one hand and press the palm of your other hand against the sole at the toe end. Notice where the shoe bends. If it's back toward the arch, you could have problems with support and stability.)

Only you can decide how much weight you're willing to live with in the name of increased stability and durability. Consider owning two pairs of tennis shoes: a lighter game-day shoe and a heavier training shoe (this technique has been used by distance runners for years). If you practice in a heavier shoe and play your matches in a lighter shoe, you'll feel quicker in competition and you'll go through your shoes more slowly while you're at it.

Bottom Line

When you get beyond fashion and examine the function of footwear, you'll wind up performing better on the court. What more could you ask of a tennis shoe?

Apparel Size Guide

Sizes are listed by U.S. standards. Specific apparel items may vary slightly from this chart. Midwest Sports cannot be held responsible for variations in manufacturer sizing. Please let us know if you need more specific information regarding a size and we will do our best to accommodate your request!

Email: info@midwestsports.com

Phone: 800-334-4580

What are the rules of tennis?

Lawn tennis was originally played on grass courts, but most major events are now played on courts of hard, composite materials; exceptions include Wimbledon, played on grass, and the French Open, played on clay. In singles play the court measures 78 ft by 27 ft (23.8 m by 8.2 m). The court is divided in half by a tennis net 3 ft (91 cm) high in the middle and 3.5 ft (1.1 m) high at the end posts. On either side of the net lie the forecourts, each of which contains two adjacent service courts measuring 21 ft by 13.5 ft (6.4 m by 4.1 m) each. A backcourt 18 ft (5.5 m) long adjoins each forecourt. A base line that runs parallel to the net terminates the playing court. In doubles play, 4 1/2-foot-wide (1.4-m) alleys flanking either side of the court perpendicular to the net are also in play.

Play is directed toward hitting the inflated rubber, felt-covered, unstitched tennis ball (slightly smaller than a baseball) with a racket�oval headed, originally 27 in. (68.58 cm) long but now usually longer, the hitting surface strung with resilient fiber�into the opponent's court so that it may not be returned. One player serves an entire game and is given two service tries each time the ball is put in play. The ball is served diagonally from behind the base line so that it bounces beyond the net, in the opposite service court. A let ball (one that caroms off the top of the net into the proper service court) does not count as a fault (bad serve). Service alternates after points, between the right- and left-hand courts. After the first game and all odd-numbered games, the players change ends of the court.

Once the serve puts the ball in play, players may hit it into any part of the opponent's court until a point is scored. Rallies won by either player score points. Scoring progresses from love (zero) to 15 (first point), to 30, then 40. The point scored after 40 wins the game, but when the game goes to deuce (tied at 40�40) a player must go two points ahead to win it. The first player to win six games takes the set, provided the opposing player has won no more than four games. Traditionally, after the players were tied at five games all, the first to go two games ahead won the set. In 1970, however, the United States Lawn Tennis Association (founded 1881 and now simply the United States Tennis Association), the sport's national governing body, initiated an abbreviated method, called the tie-breaker, for deciding deadlocked sets. In a tie-breaker, the first player to win seven points wins the set, provided the opponent trails by at least two points. Only in the deciding set of major championship matches outside the United States is the original two-game margin of victory retained. The best two out of three sets wins most professional matches; the best three out of five sets wins a late-round match in men's play in major championships. An umpire calls play, and in important matches a net judge, foot-fault judges, and linesmen often assist.